|Advanced design. Interpreted from
Japanese book. Originally posted 2005; contributed by Glenna B.
|Materials: 32cm mari, wrapped in
dark green. #5
Perle Cotton (DMC Green #905, Brick #352, 351, 350, 349, 347).
Gold marking thread.
1. Prepare a Simple 20 division, marking with gold metallic. The
equator does not need a marking line, but place pins in it.
2. Place two pins on each mark line: 1/2 way between pole and obi
and 1/3 up from obi. You should now have 5 pins on each mark line.
Green Chidori Kagari
3. With doubled thread in green, Green work chidori
at the pins. Begin at a 1/3 pin, then take the next
stitch above the 1/2 pin on the next mark line to the right, then back
down to the 1/3 pin on the next mark line. Continue this zigzag
pattern around the mari until you get back to your start point. DO
NOT end thread. Repeat the same pattern on the alternate mark lines.
4. Stitch 4-5 more rounds using shitagake
. Each round is below the previous round and tucked up
close so they touch. You will need to hold the upper point of the
previous round up a little when you insert your needle. After the
stitch is taken the previous round will naturally fall back in
place. You should have a wide band of parallel rows which cross
each other between the mark lines. Repeat on the opposite pole.
Important: Leave the 1/2 mark pin in place until all stitching is
5. Remove the 1/3 mark pins. Measure down 1/3
from pole and replace the pin. Tsumu
will be worked around the1/3 pin (spindle top) and
the 1/2 pin (spindle bottom). Use single thread in the lightest brick
shade. Mentally number the mark lines counter clockwise around the mari
or use pins if needed.
6. Bring needle up at the bottom of the green stitching on line
1. Lay the thread over the green pattern and to the right of the
1/2 pin on line 2. Rotate the mari so the pole is facing you and
the stitch you just took below the green stitching is facing away from
you. Take the stitch (touching the pin) between the 1/3 pin and
the pole. Rotate the mari back to your starting position. Lay the
thread over the green pattern and to the left of the 1/2 pin on line 2.
Complete the spindle by taking a stitch below the green pattern on line
3. You should now have a spindle which begins on line 1, loops around
two pins on line 2, and ends on line 3. Continue to work spindles in
your lightest color until you get back to your start point. Repeat the
round, stitching spindles on the alternate mark lines. End that
7. With your next darkest color and stitch the next spindle
round. Be sure to stretch the points. The lower point of your
spindle will grow toward the equator. Threads will cross at the
bottom of the spindle and at a space between each mark line. Leave
the 1/2 pin in place and groom the threads flat on either side and below
8. Continue to work spindle rounds. Each subsequent round is
in a darker shade. Be careful not to pull the rounds too
tight. Groom the threads so they lay flat.
9. When the last round is complete, go back and tack the last
intersection of the bottom of the spindle (the threads cross over the
10. The last round of the spindle on the left side tends to
slip. Secure the top of the spindle by stitching a French
knot. Wrap the thread around the needle twice. Insert the
needle point into the mari. Make sure it pierces that left side
thread to hold it in place. Take up the slack in the thread on the
needle so it is close to the point. Stitch under the thread wrap
to another point which needs a French knot.
11. Repeat on the other pole.
12. The obi is a series of chidori
stitched in the same manner as in #3. Remove the
equator mark pins. Determine how wide you want your bands and mark
that width by measuring down from the bottom of each petal toward the
equator and place a pin on the mark line. There will be 2 pins on
each mark line.
13. Select any pin and with doubled thread stitch chidori kagari
for 2 rounds in the darkest shade. Be sure the rounds are close
14. Sample was stitched in this sequence: darkest shade on
odd mark line; then green on even mark line; then lightest shade on odd;
then medium shade on even.
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