Temari Pattern 99TB01
Advanced beginner to Intermediate Pattern contributed by Terry Blanchard
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Interwoven Squares and Triangles

        This pleasing pattern is a totally symmetric, intriguing geometric and looks well done in two contrasting colors.  Although looking very complicated it works up very fast due to only two major design elements of squares and triangles with a minor design fill. It looks best when the mari thread color matches either one of the design colors.  It can be done on a 3 or 4 inch ball.  When done on a 3 inch ball (purple photo) the design becomes compact, requires a fairly accurate C8 marking (but not obsessively accurate) and the mari doesn’t show if you are an expert stitcher.  If not a perfect stitcher, a matching mari hides small flaws of stitching or marking inconsistencies.  When done on a 4 inch ball shown in the blue photos at the bottom of the page, a spacing occurs between the outside of the triangles and the circumference ring design between the triangles, allows “breathing” room for marking or stitching inconsistencies, and so here the mari thread color becomes significant.  The marking thread is not a significant part of the final design but does show, primarily between the circumference ring designs. The pattern was initially found and interpreted by Vicki G from the book Edo Temari; ISBN# N-4-8377-0394-1, pg 8.  Terry B interpreted and wrote these instructions by request from the discussion list members.

The purple photo shows a 3 in ball with purple cotton thread matching the DMC 5 pearl cotton purple #550. DMC 5 pale pink #225 was also used.  Marking thread was Lion Brand Lame Gold Metallic yarn.

1.  Prepare a ball.  Divide and mark into a C8.

2.  Stitch all 6 squares of the C8 first.  Using the mark line as an “outside” boundary, stitch toward the center of the square.  For a dark (light) mari, start with the lighter (darker) color. Stitch 13 lines in each square alternating color ending with the lighter (darker) color.  (Hint:  if it is easier to stitch starting on the “inside” of the square working out, measure 1.5 cm from the marking thread into the square.  Start there and work out towards the marking thread.)  Lay stitches close together.

3.  After completing all squares, work the 8 triangles.  The triangle positions are easily located at the place where the corners of three squares meet.  Stitching starts on the inside of one of the corners of the square (refer to the photos).  Alternate “under” and “over” each side of the square using the needle, eye-end first.  Go under the first square side (13 threads) then over the next square side (13 threads).  Use your needle to clear the way, trying not to catch any mari threads.  (Hint: if this becomes tedious, you may want to use paper tabs, slipped between the 13 threads and mari to assist with the weaving.  Tabs should be about 1 ¼ in by ½ in, a total of 3 needed).  When the next inside square corner is reached, turn the ball so that this corner is pointing up, herringbone stitch under the marking thread.  Repeat the “under” and “over” each set of 13 threads. Turn ball and herringbone.  “Under” and “over” and you’ve reach the starting point.  Each triangle design consists of 2 light rounds, 8 dark rounds, 2 light rounds.  Each triangle must be worked with exactly the same under and over sequence.  Each side of the triangle is always the same sequence.  On the initial side of the first triangle, if you did an “under”, always do an “under” first on subsequent sides of this triangle and also on subsequent triangles.  This holds true no matter which corner of the triangle you start in. Lay stitches close together.

4.  The final design element is the ring design around the balls circumference filling in between two opposing triangles.  This is a process of over and under weaving around the existing elements, following the triangles to determine the pattern.  To set the first “track”, start at any triangle corner.  Following the marking line at the nearby intersection, weave the same as the nearby triangle on the same side of the marking line as the thread track you are laying.  (Put another way, if the triangle goes over, the nearby track goes over, if the triangle goes under, the nearby track goes under).   Weave completely around the ball to starting point.  The circumference ring design consists of 2 light (dark), 1 dark (light), 2 light (dark) tracks on EACH SIDE of the marking thread.  EACH SIDE (5 tracks) of the marking thread will be an opposite weave.  If one side (5 tracks) goes under a square then the other side of the marking line goes over (5 tracks).  (This is one of those surprising geometric tricks, since opposing triangle sides will always be an opposite weave---IF you were consistent in laying your triangles.)  Use photo’s as guidelines if needed.  Complete the tracks around the 3 major visible circumference rings.  Note when you cross an existing set of tracks, interweave them­one 5 track side over, other 5 track side under the crossing 5 line tracks (check photo’s).   Design comment for the 3 inch -- if you don’t have the tracks follow the adjacent triangle weave the overall design becomes to busy and thus less pleasing to the eye.

5.  Smooth, nudge and adjust threads for consistency in design. Design is complete.

Alternative designs:
1. Do the squares in the solid pattern (2 light, 8 dark, 2 light) and triangles in the alternate colors.
2.  Instead of alternating colors use a 2 light, 2 dark pattern adding one line to the original 13 alternating lines.  The solid pattern could be 1 light, 10 dark, 1 light.

Worked on 4 inch ball:
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Last updated 2/2004 © From 1998 inclusive G.Thompson and Terry Blanchard