Temari Pattern 99DA01
Intermediate to Advanced Pattern contributed by Debi Abolt   / Download PDF File of this pattern

Interpreted from a design in Japanese Book Dream Temari, Classic to Modern (ISBN # 4-8377-0199-X) inside front cover and on pg 87. The original diagram for the embroidery stitching is excellent. Stitched and written by Debi Abolt, April 2005.


1. Wrap a mid-sized mari in orange thread to match the orange design thread. Sample made was 25 cm in circumference.
2. Mark a simple 16 without obi using the orange design thread. Tack the division lines in place at the obi location using small orange stitches that you can see for later placement use.

3. Divide the circumference by 12. Use this measurement to place pins on one of the marking lines as follows: One pin down from the N pole, one up from the S pole and one pin on each side of the obi. For the sample I used a 2cm measurement
4. Work a black spindle from the North pole to the obi and another one from the South pole to the obi. Use the pins as starting place for the spindles. Do not remove the pins yet, the next step will be easier if you keep them in place. Be sure to stretch your points and do not stitch too tightly. The width of the spindle should be halfway to the next division line. If your spindle is getting too wide and you are not stitching all the way to the pole, you will need to stretch your points further. The sample used 5 rounds of #5
perle cotton.

5. Work an orange spindle interlocked with the black spindles as follows: Use the middle two pins as placement for the first round of stitches. Bring your thread up at the
top of the two middle pins, run your thread under the right side of the black spindle then over the bottom spindle to take your stitch at the next pin, run your thread under the other side of the bottom black spindle and then back up to the starting spot for round two. This spindle should not be wider than the halfway mark between marking lines and the points should stretch to almost the outer pins. I used 6 rounds of #5 perle cotton on the sample.

6. Place the pins on the next marking line to the right.

7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 reversing the coloring. That is, do two small orange spindles interwoven with  one large black spindle.

8. Continue to work the spindle pattern around the ball on 13 of the 16 division lines. The remaining 3 lines will be used for the face.

9. Work the outer orange spindles for the face. The upper right and left spindles are 5/8 of the distance from the North pole to South pole. The lower right and left spindles are 3/8 the distance from the N pole to S pole. The bottom center spindle is 1/4 the distance from N to S pole. All spindles use 5 rounds of thread in the example.

















10. Baste an outline for the lower curve of the tiger’s face in a removable thread. I used black #5 perle and a small running stitch. This thread will be removed after stitching the white. Place pins at the starting part of the center spindle so you can avoid
stitching in the area you will need when stitching it.
11. Stitch vertical satin stitches in white following the edge of the side spindles and the curve along the bottom. Be sure to end the stitches high enough up on the ball so that they will be covered by the center spindle when it is stitched, and avoid the stitching area for that spindle. These stitches only need to go close enough to the center to be covered by the center orange spindle. See picture on the next page.

        
12. Stitch the center orange spindle, making sure that the threads lie over the previous stitches and do not get embedded in them. It helps to insert the needle under the orange spindle (after it is stitched) and run it up and down to groom the threads.

     
13. Satin stitch over the bottom section of the middle spindle with white for the tiger’s nose.
14. Use a combination of straight stitches, outline stitches and couching to place the black details on the face: ears and outline, triangles for nose, vertical line from nose to top with three horizontal lines at forehead, eyebrows and eyes, round intersection circles for cheek and mouth area (note that these are slightly under the white satin stitching).



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Last updated 5/2005 © From 1998 inclusive G.Thompson, Debi Abolt