1. The mari wrap will show through on this pattern in the centers of the petals, but if worked as described in the Japanese pattern this is the only place; choose your mari color accordingly. Divide a ball into 16 dimple divisions using invisible marking thread.

2. Mark and stitch the obi,  as well as upper and lower obi guidelines 1cm above the true obi and one 1cm below the true obi. 3. Stitch two rows of squares using the vertical marking lines, upper and lower Obi guidelines. The upper row of squares is shown in solid lines; the lower in dashed line. Start each square at the X in the center and stitch outward (you are stitching filled polygons). Doing the squares first helps in determining distances in placing the petals around the poles.

4. To work the petals around the poles, add 2 extra marking lines around each pole. On a 3 inch mari, the sides of the squares are placed 2 cm from the pole. While the squares are shown in red and green here, they should be done in invisible marking thread, or the color that you are going to stitch the petals in. Note from Martine: I did NOT use the 2 cm distances used in the Japanese diagram for these squares. My squares were much farther away from the pole because of the size of my ball. To achieve the proper angle of each petal at the bottom the bottom of the petal stitch lines must run parallel to the diagonal lines formed by the squares. 5. Stitch each petal one at a time in its entirety before starting the next petal -refer to placement of petals in diagram. Start with petal shown in blue in the diagram: Stitch points 1-2-3-4-1: start the stitch at the top bringing thread out to left of one simple 16 division line (1 cm away from pole if using Japanese directions on a 3 inch ball). Go down and to the right and take a stitch over the green line, just to the right of where the red line crosses it.  Now take thread to a point that will be the bottom of the petal (1.5 cm from obi guide line if working on a 3 inch ball) and take a stitch. Now moving up and to the left, take a stitch on the green line, to the left where the red and green cross. Continue back to starting point and take a stitch. Keep going in this manner till this petal is complete (about six rounds on a 3 inch ball).  The bottom of the petal should fit into the "V" created by the squares stitched around the obi. 6. Upon completion of one petal, move counter clockwise to the next petal. Note that this petal will be stitched on the red line. Stitch points A-B-C-D-A. Repeat this sequence alternating stitching petals on the green and red lines. 7. The last petal requires that you pass your needle under the threads of the first petal when stitching the left side of the last petal to continue the layered effect.

8.    Stitch the center lines of the flower; then stitch the outline of the squares last.

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Joan varied the basics of the pattern by interweaving the petals rather than overlapping, and left white/negative space between the obi squares. To create the interwoven effect, rather than stitching each petal to completion before moving on to the next, stitch one round on each petal around the ball and continue in this manner till the petals are complete.