Temari Pattern 0502 / A TalkTemari StitchAlong Compilation
Intermediate to Advanced / Download PDF File of this pattern


Interwoven Triangles (from Cosmo Book 4, pgs 6 and 67)

This was one of the patterns requested to be translated by Mrs. Koh at the Temari NY StitchIn 2005; those starting notes were then shared on TalkTemari as a StitchAlong and further developed. Thanks to Milly Koh, Paula G, Sue H, the TT list and specifically Debi A from TT for continuing to develop the working directions and Debi for the photos.

Use two colors to stitch this design, plus some metallic for embellishing if you desire. It will help if the mari wrap is the same color as the color chosen as a background color (here it's green).




Wrap and mark a 24cm circumference (3 inch diameter) mari. The pattern focuses on the triangles formed around each pole.  You will stitch a rose garden element using the two sets of three lines formed at the middle intersections of the triangles.  Start stitching close to the intersection of the six lines. With your first color, stitch one round from points A, B, C back to A.  With the second color, stitch one round from points 1, 2, 3 back to 1. Keep stitching this sequence, alternating one round of each color until you begin to approach the outer triangle boundary lines.


When the points of the triangles you are stitching begin to approach the outer marking boundaries of the marked triangles, you will "bury' the stitches in the mari wrap to make the points "disappear". This is how you maintain the straight edges along the rose garden sections. Says Debi : " photo at left shows the white stitches sunk into the mari just before the division line (circled area).  This was only necessary on the white triangle, the one rotated from the orientation of the triangle determined by the marking threads, and only needed a few
rows."

From Debi: "this photo shows the triangle completed with extra white rows along the outside.
I did the white triangles last before adding them so the final triangles have nice points.

Debi reworked this pattern in sharper colors, and the progress is shown here:





Says Debi: It is more efficient to do the whole ball in rounds...that is work the first color round on all triangles, then the second color, then repeat.  That is quicker and more efficient than doing one triangle at a time.  When you get near the end though, 1 or two rounds left, it is probably good to switch to completing each triangle individually.  You can do extra rounds to even things out but keep them paired...do both a first color and a second color on the triangle to keep the design going.  As long as it is only 1 or 2 rounds it doesn't show on the finished ball as much as extra outlining rows would.

Lastly, it is relatively easy to groom the threads at the triangles when you are done to clean up any areas where the edges of the overlaps don't look nice and smooth.  Put your needle under the thread of one color only and slide it gently toward the crossover area.  If you slide it too far you will make the triangles uneven, in that case just put it in again under the other color and slide it back.
      
Debi also notes: I was starting on the stitch along last night and I had a thought; Since the design is based on the triangles on a C10 and similar
triangles are produced on a C8 division, it could be done on a C8.  You'll get a different look overall (4 large triangles meeting at a point instead of 5) but the technique will be the same.  The thought occurred as I was contemplating doing a C10 on the 19cm circumference mari I had wrapped.  They need to be pretty round for a C10 to work nicely at that size and I wasn't really sure this one would be.  It turned out OK though, so my first sample will be the C10 but then I think I will work a C8 for curiosity's sake. BTW, I think the triangles on a C8 could be worked two ways...either using 8 triangles total or using only 4 that span the ball.  (Please note that we haven't yet explored this option but it's one to chew on.... )


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