Mystery
Ball, July 2007- Modified 8/23-2007 / Submitted by Glenna K
Note 8/2007: While the original
post will return a suitable outcome for a temari, it wasn't what Glenna
originally intended. If you worked the "first" version, you will still
come out with a neat temari. However, you can also try the "intended"
version as Glenna has resubmitted it..... think of it as getting
two Mystery Balls for the price of one! :>)
A note from Glenna: "Mystery Ball Stitchers, I am so sorry for the
"goof" in the first set of this Mystery Ball directions. I learned two
lessons: Proof Read more accurately and it helps to actually work the
temari for real rather than just plan it on paper! Either one of these
lessones would have caught my typing error. My thanks to Kate for
picking up on things when she realized what had happened..... !"
"String You Along"---
This is an original design which
I have not stitched myself. Together we will see if it
works. The design will work well in only one color, or 2-4
colors, or variegated threads. When it is done you will laugh,
because it will remind you of something you probably did as a child.
You will need lots of pins. It will help if they all have the
same size heads. I like quilt pins, because the heads are big.
Measure and pin mark your mari for 8 Complex Divisions. (If you
are not ready for complex divisions, work on an 8 Simple
Division. Stitch your mark lines with contrasting sewing
thread. This thread will be removed after your design is
stitched. I call it “waste thread.” Measure out from the NP
on 4 alternate lines and place pins to form corners of a square as
described below.
You already should have a pin at the corner of each square. Place
another pin (we're using Red, Yellow, Blue,Green for this example but
you can substitute any four that you want to) at each corner of the
square around the North Pole INSIDE the original marking pins.
Wrap a scrap of thread around those 4 pins to be sure you have a
symmetrical square.
Locate the original 4 pins forming the square around the NP. You
should have 4 more pins in color sequence [Red, Yellow, Blue, and
White] inside the original 4. The inside pins should have a
thread wrapped around them testing the accuracy of your square.
Adjust the shape of your thread wrapped square as needed.
Inside the thread square, place pins side by side so the heads just
touch. Each side of the square will be pinned in a different
color. For ease of description use Red on side 1, Yellow on the
next side clockwise, followed by Blue, then Green. Be sure that
you have exactly the same number of pins on each side of the
square. Remove the thread wrapped around the pins to show the
square. Yes, I know that is a lot of pins!
Hold your mari down in front of you so you can look directly onto the
NP pin. Position the row of Red pins so they are between your
body and the NP in. You should be looking into the square from
above the NP.
Now raise your mari up so you are looking at the row of Red pins from
outside the square. You should have a Red pin at the right
corner. You should have one Yellow pin at the left corner.
As you follow the stitching pattern the descriptions assume that you
are looking the pins as you are now – from outside the square.
Mentally number your pins right to left with the right corner pin being
#1. This is your Start position.
Now that you are oriented to your square, think about your
colors. Here are some possibilities: * All one
color OR * All one variegated color OR *
2, 3, or 4 different colors. Choose and plan your color(s). If
using more than one color, assign colors to a side of the square.
Thread up your needle with a generous length of thread.
Hold your mari in Start position. Bring your
thread up between Red 1 and Red 2 pins. Lay your thread into the
middle of the square. Rotate the mari so you are facing the
Yellow pins. Take a stitch into the wrap thread close outside the
pins. Enter between Yellow 1 and Yellow 2. Exit between
Yellow 2 and Yellow 3.
Lay your thread back across the square to Red. Enter your stitch
between Red 2 and Red 3. Exit between Red 3 and Red 4.
Continue working this cross over stitch until you have a stitch between
all of the Red pins. You will be stitching between two adjacent
sides of the square.
If you are using more than one color, change now. Repeat the
cross over pattern beginning with Yellow pin 1. When you are done
work the same pattern at the Blue pins. Complete your square with
stitches at the Green pins.
Your first Square is done. Does it remind you of your
childhood? Repeat the pattern in the square around the SP.
If you are doing
a complex mari, repeat the pattern in the remaining squares on your
mari. Remove any waste thread mark lines. If you are
working a Simple Division, stitch the obi of your choice. If you are
working a Complex Division, you can leave the space between
Squares blank or stitch bands in between.
Mystery Temari October 2006 / (Intemediate) Courtesy of
Glenna K California USA
Materials: Make a 3” or larger mari. You will need 6
needles! Pick out 4 colors that you like together; the thread
recommended is #5 Perle Cotton or similar size thread. Wrap the
outer thread layer of the mari in one of your 4 colors.
Measure and divide your mari for 6 Simple Divisions with Obi.
Stitch your mark lines with a metallic to match your wrap thread.
Pin mark obi. Label the points on the obi counter clockwise [A, B, C,
D, E, F].
With Color 1 stitch a Spindle pattern from obi pin A across the North
Pole to obi pin D and back. All rounds are stitched with doubled
thread.
With Color 2 stitch a Spindle pattern from obi pin A across the South
Pole to obi pin D and back.
With Color 3 stitch a North Pole Spindle from B to E.
With Color 1 stitch a South Pole Spindle from B to E.
With Color 2 stitch a North Pole Spindle from C to F.
With Color 3 stitch a South Pole Spindle from C to F.
Stitch 7-8 more rounds on each Spindle pattern in the same sequence.
Now stitch a round of your metallic on each Spindle in sequence.
Mystery Temari February 2006 / Intermediate to
Advanced) Courtesy of Debi
A. Wisconsin, USA
Last time
around we reversed the usual process of the Mystery Balls and only
presented a diagram to work from.... we'll return to the "norm" now of
having verbal directions, and let's see what everyone comes up with on
this one. Debi A. sends this one in - it's interpreted from a Japanese
book, but the actual one won't be revealed until we archive it so
there's no cheating! :>)
Here you go: "You will need
4 design colors (at least 10 yards each) and a metallic (or a fifth
high contrast color) for marking. Wrap a 3.5 or 4 inch mari and
mark an S20 with obi. Pick any division line and place a pin at
the point halfway to the obi on both the N and the S. Skip three
lines and repeat. Continue around the ball. You will end up
with 5 lines that have pins on them, evenly spaced. Work a five
pointed star on the N and S poles using the pins for placement of
the stitches. Move the pins to the next lines to the right and
repeat the five point star with a different color. Continue until
all four colors and all lines are used. Now, go back to the first
color and work another star, slightly larger than the first one,
stretching the points as necessary. Continue to stitch stars in
each color in order for as many rounds as you wish. (I did about
12 rounds on mine) For the last round stitch each star with
metallic. Embellish the obi as desired."
Mystery
Temari May 2005 / (Advanced Beginner to Intemediate)
Courtesy of Sandy E.
This ball is based on a simple 6 divide with an obi. The wrapping color
will show. You will need a neutral color and 1 or 3 or 6 colors that go
with the neutral and the background. You will also want another color
to make bands between your sections. This color can be your neutral or
your background color. You will use it last so you can decide later if
you choose. Your neutral color can be a metallic. You will use a fair
amount of thread so plan accordingly as half of each section of the 6
divide will be stitched with this color. I used maybe up to 15 yards.
If you choose 6 other colors then one of each color will go into each
section next to the neutral. If you choose 3 colors, then you will
stitch two sections with each color, each one on the opposite side of
the ball, and if you choose 1 color then all sections will have your
neutral and this single color. All will work. I used about a 3.5 inch
ball which worked well, but most any size would be all right. I
wouldn't start with anything under 2.5 inches though for the first ball
of this pattern. Wrap and prep your mari with a simple 6 division and
with an obi. The division lines can be scrap thread, but the thread
used for your obi should be the neutral color. I ended up taking out
the division lines before I did the final bands. You should either
leave the pins in at the equator or tack the equator at each marking
line. My obi shifted and I had to remeasure it, so make sure it is
secure. The only other measurements are to place a pin on each marking
line, one half inch down from the pole, doing the same for both poles
Look at your mari with the North pole up. Find the 6 eye shaped wedges
that reach from the North pole all the way down to the South pole. The
obi line crosses these sections. We will stitch in one of the eye shape
wedges at a time. There are two stitching rules. 1) All stitches will
be parallel to the division marking lines. 2) Your needle will always
point away from the equator. In other words your thread will cross the
equator but your needle should point away from it. Use your neutral
thread and travel it to the left side of the wedge and bring it up just
under the obi very close to the dividing line. Your stitching thread
will now be in the bottom half of the wedge. You will bring the thread
up over the equator and take a stitch near the division line on the
right, above the obi. Remember to point the needle to the pole, and the
stitch is parallel to the division markings. Your stitches should be
about 1/8 inch in length. (It won't hurt if the stitch is so close to
the division line that it is even underneath the division line) Turn
the ball over so that the South pole is now up and take another stitch
about 1/8 inch away from where the stitching thread was started. This
stitch will point to the pole and be parallel to the division line. You
will notice that your thread will cross the obi, near the middle of the
wedge, and it will also cross the last stitch. Continue taking stitches
parallel to the division lines, and closer and closer to the poles,
while turning the ball each time. You will end up with a build up of
stitching threads at the center of the wedges and this is OK. There
will also be space between the threads. They will be further apart at
the division lines and be very close together at the center of the
wedge. Continue stitching in this manor, to the pins on the division
line. Stitch this neutral color in the same manor in all the wedges.
Now for the other colors. We are going to do the same thing as the
neutral color, but just in the opposite direction. Pick one of your
colors, bring the color up in the bottom section of the mari, but this
time on the right side of the wedge shape, just under the obi line.
Take a stitch on the left side of the wedge above the obi line. Turn
ball over and repeat the stitches all the way up to your pins. Fill in
the other wedges with the color of your choice. It is hard to get these
stitches even and right near the division line, so we will make bands
along the marking lines. If your band color is not the same as your
marking color then remove the marking threads but make sure you leave
the obi line in place. Replace the division lines with wrapped bands. 4
or 6 rounds of wrapping should make a band wide enough to visually
clean up the edges of your stitches. If you need a few more rows that
is ok too. Just use the same number of rounds in each band. You can
decorate any negative space to your liking and you are done.
Mystery Temari December 2005 / (Intermediate) Courtesy of
Glenna K California USA
Materials: 3” Styrofoam ball, red sewing thread, #5 pearl cotton
in Royal, Ruby, and White, Silver metallic cord, Royal metallic cord,
Ruby metallic cord
1. Wrap mari in red thread. Measure and divide
mari into Simple 6 vertical divisions. With Ruby pearl cotton
mark the mari with vertical mark lines, With a separate Ruby
thread mark an obi which will be removed. Divide the distance
from pole to pole into 1/3’s. Place pins at 1/3 and 2/3 points on
all mark lines.
2. On each mark line beginning at the pins stitch a
Royal blue Spindle for 15 rounds. Finish edge of Spindle with a
round of metallic cord, if desired. I used Silver.
3. Weave design in spindles: Begin at the obi
and work outward toward the poles following the row patterns
listed. When moving between the spindles, you can work in circles
around the mari, stitching into the thread wrap and coming up where
needed OR work the design in each spindle separately. If you
choose to work in a circle around the mari, exit the thread wrap a
couple of threads deep into the spindle design. Weave under the
spindle threads by leading with the eye end of the needle.
Exit the weave by stitching into the thread wrap and coming up at the
next spindle.
“U” = Under the spindle threads
“o” = Over the spindle threads Wt = White Example “U6, WT
o5, means under 6 spindle threads, weave White over 5 spindle
threads".
Obi to NP
Obi to SP
U14, Wt o1, U15 (2 rows)
U11, Wt o7, U12 (3 rows)
U13, Wt o3, U14
U10, Wt o9, U11
U8, Wt o2, U3, Wt o3, U3, Wt o2, U9
U9, Wt o4, U3. o4, U10
U9, Wt o11, U10
U9, Wt o1, U9, Wt o1, U10
U10, Wt o9, U11
5. When weaving is complete, work some fireworks at
the NP and SP. I used straight stitches in Red, White and Blue.
Mystery Temari January
2005 (Advanced Beginner/Intermediate) Courtesy of Ginny
T.
Work diamonds on the obi as
follows: choose a division line as a
starting place. Using the lines immediately to the right and left as
side points, and the kiku bottom points as the top and bottom of the
diamonds, stitch one round of a diamond shape. The diamond will top and
bottom points should overlap into the kiku points enough to being
interweaving the shapes. Move one division line to the right or left
and repeat, and from now on not only will each diamond top and bottom
point interweave with the kiku bottom points, but the left and right
side points will begin to interweave with the diamonds on either side
of the one you are working on. Contiune around the obi until you have
stitched one round of each diamond.
Return to the poles and stitch
another round of kiku on each,
continuing the interweaving process of the points and shapes. Then,
stitch another round on each diamond. Continuing alternating rounds on
each to interweave the pattern. Work as many total rows as you like to
develop the depth of the design. Embellish as desired, and you are
finished.
Prep a mari with regular thread wrap and divide to a
simple 8 (you actually could do a 6, 10 or 12 - your choice but it has
to be an even number (the sample these verbals are from is done on an
8) - mark the divisions, pin but don't mark the obi. With the
north pole facing you, place marking pins half way plus a smidge (tiny
smidge) from pole to obi on alternate lines. With the south pole facing
you, repeat using the other alternate lines. Remove obi pins but
NOT the marking pins you have just placed (that now zig zag around the
middle of the ball). Both hemispheres will look the same except the
half-way pins are on alternate lines and zigzag around the middle of
the ball. Pick a pole and call it north. You should have pins closer to
the north pole on half of the lines and pins closer to the south
pole on the other half of the lines .
Using kiku stitch, being
stitching 1/8th inch from the north pole on a line where the marking
pin is up towards that pole. You will be stitching an elongated kiku
using the pins you have placed so - you will go down to a pin close to
the south pole for the bottom of the stitch, back to the north pole,
then to a pin (by the south pole), back to the north pole, down to a
pin, back to the north pole, down to a pin. Repeat this sequence around
to your starting point. On the other set of lines stitch a short kiku -
north pole to pin (close to the north pole) to north pole to pin
etc. Reverse the ball and stitch the same sequence around the
opposite hemisphere. Keep repeating the rounds, alternating
hemispheres and sets of lines - you will be forming regular kiku
around the poles and interwoven points at the pins. You will also
notice the pattern begins filling in nicely - repeat until the
interwoven points reach the bottom of your kiku stitches forming
from the poles.
This
mystery ball is easy yet gives quite an impressive appearance when
completed. It will also introduce you to or give you the challenge of
adding additional marking lines to create an interwoven design. Prepare
a 3 inch mari wrapped in the color of your choice. You will use five
different colors to stitch the pattern, so you can choose accordingly
to coordinate or clash! Mark the ball is a simple/vertical four
division with an obi. You will not see the marking threads after the
design is completed (hopefully) so you don't need to use a "good"
thread to mark with. Locate the distance between the north pole and the
obi (this distance is the same from any point to any point given that
it is a simple four with obi ball), and divide it into thirds. Place a
pin on each mark line one third of the distance from pole to obi. You
will have four pins forming the corners of a square around the pole
point. Stitch an extra marking line to create this square around the
pole point. Do this on each of the six pole points. Hold
the ball with a pole pointing to
your nose. Notice that each of the new squares also form irregular
hexagons, every other side of the hexagon being formed by a square and
the alternate sides by the original marking lines. The stitching
pattern will use the hexagons and the squares. Choose one of your
design colors and stitch the outside outline of a hexagon (stitch on
the outer side of the marking lines, away from the center of the
hexagon, as working IN toward the center of the squares). Locate the
hexagon directly opposite on the other side of the ball and stitch this
hexagon with the same color. Repeat with each pair of opposite
hexagons, each pair being stitched in a different color. Your threads
will begin to overlap and cross each other on the original marking
lines.
With the fifth color of your choice,
stitch the outline of each square that you laid down with the extra
marking lines. Stitch on the outside of the square, away from the
center pole. The stitches at each corner of a square will be placed in
between the threads of the two adjacent hexagons you just outlined
previously.
This completes the stitching cycle that
you will repeat to complete the ball (again, you can email for a photo
hint of this step being completed if you need it). Work a round on each
hexagon in the appropriate color and then a round on each square. The
hexagons will fill in toward the center of the squares, eventually
filling the squares. The points of the corners of the squares will work
toward each other along the original marking lines. You will probably
finish the hexagons and fill the squares before the corners meet; this
is normal, just work extra rounds on the squares to meet the corners.
The ball is complete other than any embellishing you would like,
perhaps a round of metallic around each square; or some fill design in
the hexagons - or nothing at all. When complete you should see a woven
design in the center of each square, similar to a quilt block pattern
that seems to "float" in the square. This interpretation was inspired
by the Japanese Temari book "Hometown Temari",
ISBN750-900003-2012
Prepare a three to four inch ball with
standard thread
wrap, and divide into a simple 32 with obi. Do marking lines and
obi
with thin metallic or other thin thread, even just plain sewing
thread.
Hold the ball with the North Pole
at the top. Mark 4 adjacent
lines
with pins 3/8 to 1/2 inch (depending on the size of your ball) above
the
obi. On the next four lines to the right, mark them 1/2 the way
from
pole to obi. On the next four lines to the right, mark them 3/8
to
1/2 inch above the obi - the same as the first 4 lines. Then mark
the
next 4 lines 1/2 way from pole to obi. Continue around the
ball.
You should have 4 sets of 4 lines marked 1/2 way alternating with 4
sets
of 4 lines marked 3/8 to 1/2 inch above the obi.
You are now going to stitch a zigzag pattern. The first round is
done
with regular perle cotton. Start with a regular herringbone
stitch
at the rightmost pin in a set of 4 that are close to the obi. Go
up
to the rightmost 1/2 way pin in the set of 4 to the right of where you
started.
At the 1/2 way pins, you will be stitching a kiku stitch. Zig
down
to the rightmost pin in the next set of 4 and stitch. Zag up to
the
rightmost pin in the next set of 4 and stitch. Continue until you
get
back to your starting point. Start another zigzag pattern at the
pin
to the left of your starting pin and stitch to the left of your
previous
round. Continue until you have stitched 4 zigzag rounds.
Stitch
the next round with a metallic thread. Remember to do the kiku
stitch
at the 1/2 way pins and just a v-shaped herringbone at the pins close
to
the obi. On a 3-inch ball, you should be able to fit in 4rounds,
first
round is perle cotton, next is metallic, third is perle cotton and the
last
is metallic. Of course, feel free to change the rounds as
desired.
These are just suggestions. Stitch the same pattern on the
southern hemisphere - holding the ball
so
that the South Pole is now at the top. Carefully clip the marking
threads that are associated with the kiku
stitch
(the 1/2 way markings) at the obi. Bury these threads so that
they
cannot be seen. You should now have 4 empty spaces between the
kiku
stitches around the ball. Fill these spaces with a pine needle
stitch
or spray, as desired. Finish the ball by putting on a wrapped obi (it
will go over the
sprays)
and embellish the obi as desired.