One of the most common  - though by no means the only - application of the Uwagake Chidori Stitch Arrangement (called a "stitch arrangement" since it's not simply a stitch, but an outcome built up of multiple stitches over multiple rows) is in the creation of a Kiku (Chrysanthemum) design. The Chrysanthemum is a traditional favorite flower of Japan, the flower of the Royal Court and Emperor, and designs inspired from it are very popular in all forms of Japanese culture, and Temari is no exception. While Uwagake Chidori is used here, the Kiku design can be worked by any number of stitches, stitch arrangements and variations.
Uwagake Chidori is formed by rows of an elongated zig zag stitch (one row of it being similar, but not technically exactly the same, as what is commonly called a herringbone stitch), where the top row is worked around and under the previous rows to create the signature inverted widening "V" of interwoven threads. The bottom of the rows are placed to create a downward point.  For more hints and tips in addition to this tutorial, see the UC tips page     

A hint from Sue H. of the discussion group... be sure that you have a sufficient base prepped on your mari.... if it is not thick enough your stitches will melt into it and not be well defined. Personally I use batting, yarn and thread for mine, and it creates a base so that you can take a several mm stitch and then with normal tension it pulls to a nice tight stitch. Wrap and divide a mari into vertical sections. The most common to being working is either eight or ten - whatever you prefer. Many designs can be made using this stitch on more and thus smaller divisions, but until you get the hang of it, try eight or ten. Mark the vertical line and the obi. Place a mark pin halfway from obi to pole on each marking line.

Enter a thread of the first color (this happens to be variegated green) close to the pole, tight to the left of one marking line. You will be repeating this distance from pole to stitch on each line so measure its distance or in some other way record it so that you can repeat it, and you want to repeat it accurately for the best results. Then, move one line to the right and take a stitch just below the mark pin. Pull the thread snug but not tight enough to put tension on the lines and pull them out of orientation.  Note - all stitches on Chrysanthemum are taken from right to left. But, you are working the pattern from left to right - so the thread will cross over itself in order to keep this orientation going. The cross over will take place on the polar stitches as you make the next move - keep the cross overs lined up on the marking line. They will not really become apparent until you begin working the second round.

Move one thread to the right again and take a stitch at the pole - the same distance from the pole as where you entered on the first thread.  Note that as make the stitches, your needle should be horizontal, and perpendicular to the marking thread. Paying attention to this will help you have even stitches and and even pattern outcome.

Move one line to the right and take a stitch at the mark pin. As you take the stitches at the mark pins you can remove them.

Continue around the ball in this manner until you have reached where you began - end the thread at the starting point. (Note - as  you get comfortable with working this stitch, you can just carry the thread till it is used again, but to learn it is less confusing to end it off).

Enter a new thread of the second color on one of the lines that does not have a pole stitch. Place it the same distance from the pole as all of the others on the previous round, and again just to the left of the marking line.

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