Temari Tips for Uwagake Chidori Stitch Arrangement

Tips and Hints for Working the Uwagake Chidori Stitch Arrangement

        The Uwagake Chidori Stitch Arrangement is composed of multiple rows of a herringbone-like zig-zag stitch (thus, stitch arrangement - it's not a single, isolated stitch) that creates a unique effect at one or both ends (points of the zig-zag). The subsequent rows are worked around and under all or some of the previous rows, to create an interwoven effect and and (depending on the number of rows worked around and under) a widening, inverted V.

       The UC is very often applied in creating Kiku/Chrysanthemum inspired designs (floral-like sprays radiating outward from the central point or pole, similar to the floral blossom of a chrysanthemum, or like a fireworks blast), but it is very much NOT limited to these designs. It can be used in any of a multitude of designs and patterns, limited only by your imagination (likewise, Kiku-inspired patterns can be created by many other stitches or stitch arrangements).

        The photo essay/tutorial notwithstanding, here are some extra hints and tips from web readers and TT folks that might help also....and if you have something to share and add drop a note...

+)One of the first things that has to happen is that the stitching points have to be evenly identified on each hemisphere of the ball... after the ball is divided and you have the obi/equator. The starting points at each pole need to be circular around the pole points, evenly spaced out from the pole and likewise the stitching points for the bottom of the petals need to be evenly spaced from the pole (or obi - and there is the trick!). There are a number of ways to get the pole stitches even... I keep one of the little sewing gauge rulers in my temari tool kit and set it to the distance I am using, so then I can place and check each starting point. There are a lot of other tricks to use to measure a circle for starting points at the poles. Some folks use household items like coins or buttons - just hold it in place on the pole and place pins around the edge. Others get the little stick on round labels from office supply stores - they come in a variety of sizes, but be sure to get the removable adhesive variety. You can make paper or cardboard templates of any size(s) you want (and it helps then to poke a hole dead center in them so that you can pin the template to the pole on the mari). Likewise the plastic canvas that comes in circular shapes can be cut and trimmed to make more durable templates.

+)Most stitchers place pins for the points that will be the bottom of the petals.... and it is much easier to measure UP from the obi than DOWN from the pole. This will also negate the problem of if your mari is off a little on the divisions. Again there are many ways to measure the same distance up from the obi - again I use the sewing guage, but you can also use your measuring strip from doing your divisions, just choose your point and use a scrap of your strip to fold and mark the distance.

+) This is one of the first tips we had on the discussion list - as Sarah R. used to say, "stretch your points", as she and Sue H. learned in their classes with Sensei Ozaki. It is difficult in the beginning to realize that when you place the bottom petal stitches that you need to drop down from the previous stitch more than you think. You need to take into account the volume of the thread as it bends at the point. Usually this has to be at least 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch depending on the mari size and thread size. Prior to taking a stitch, place your thread where it will lie and look where the point should fall under the previous round - that is where you need to place your stitch.

+) This is harder to explain than it is to show. Threads meeting at a right angle (90 degrees, as in a street intersection) can be closer to the previous threads when you take the stitch. But when you have a smaller angle, 45 degrees or less as in the case of the tips of the "petals" in a kiku, the stitch must be placed farther out away from the previous rows to accomodate the way the threads miter back as the stitch is finished and the thread is carried on to the next area. Place your forefingers together at the tips, knuckles up, at a 90 degree angle. Note how much of an overlap there is--- nearly none. Now narrow the angle to "point" away from you --- see how the fingers sort of overlap at the tips, touching together for a longer space? With thread, if you have this configuration too closely placed, the threads will end up in a "rounded" shape at the tip, and bunch up. By placing successive stitches out a bit more from the previous ones the points will indeed be stretched --- Sarah had it exactly right. Hope this helps. I have been sitting here putting my fingers together to try to describe--- anyone seeing me would have sent for the little men in the white coats for sure. ... from Pat W.

+) Use the little reinforcer rings for notebook paper - even though they only come in one size they work - but being a "donut" you can see to place them on the center and the remove easily... from Nicole. Webmaster note - you could cut anysize donut you need from a removable inkjet label.