Temari Tips for Uwagake Chidori Stitch

Tips and Hints for Working the Uwagake Chidori Stitch

        The Uwagake Chidori Stitch is composed of multiple rows of a zig-zagging stitch that creates a unique effect at the top and bottom. The subsequent rows are worked by carrying the working thread over ("Uwa" means "over") and around the previous rows before taking the next stitch, to create an interwoven effect as a widening, inverted V-shaped wedge at the top of the zig-zag. While sometimes compared to a "herringbone" stitch, it not the same, and really is much different. A traditional herringbone stitch in general embroidery takes a substantially large "bite" of the stitching base/fabric as the stitch, working in a zig-zag manner,and it is the same on both upper and lower edges. The Uwagake Chidori Kagari is a tiny stitch - very similar to a professional tailor's hem, but not quite - and it is different on the top from the bottom. As often happens when trying to "switch" from Japanese to English, there is no absolue, direct equivalent. Uwagake Chidori is not a herringbone stitch, it's Uwagake Chidori

       The UC is very often applied in creating Kiku/Chrysanthemum inspired designs (floral-like sprays radiating outward from the central point or pole, similar to the floral blossom of a chrysanthemum, or like a fireworks blast), but it is very much NOT limited to these designs. It can be used in any of a multitude of designs and patterns, limited only by your imagination (likewise, Kiku-inspired patterns can be created by many other stitches or stitch arrangements).

        The photo tutorial notwithstanding, here are some extra hints and tips collected through the years from experience, web readers and TT folks that might help.

+) One of the first things that has to happen is that the stitching points have to be evenly placed on each hemisphere of the ball after the ball is divided and you have the obi/equator. The top/starting points at each pole need to be circular around the pole points, evenly spaced out from the pole and likewise the stitching points for the bottom of the points/petals need to be evenly spaced up from the obi. There are a number of ways to get the pole stitches even: learn to develop your eye for small distances of a few mm; use a relative measurement such as several needle-widths; use the paper tape that you divided and marked the mari with; use one of the little sewing gauges and set it to the distance being used. There are still other tips to measure a circle for starting points at the poles, such as using a button, or making small paper circles that can be pinned to the center pole and stitch around them. By far though, the best thing you can do is train your eye, and then perhaps check yourself with measuring.

+) When placing the starting points for the bottom stitches of Uwagake Chidori, it is much easier and will give a better outcome to measure UP from the obi, rather than DOWN from the pole. This will also help negate or at least dilute any irregularites in the roundness of the mari and/or division and marking. Again, there are many ways to measure the same distance up from the obi - by eye, paper strip, sewing gauge.

+) The preferred way to determine distances in temari-making is "relative", rather than "absolute" - that is, distances are described in relation to something on the mari marking rather than measuring a specific distance with a ruler. For example, the bottom point of Uwagake Chidori would be placed "1/2 of the distance between the equator and pole" rather than say, "2cm up from the equator". For small distances of less than 1cm, mm measurements will often be used, but it's not uncommon to see small distance described in terms of "needle widths" - since the average diameter of a needle is usually about 1mm.

+) As Sarah R. used to say, "stretch your points", as she and Sue H. learned in their classes with Ozaki Sensei when they learned from her while in Tokyo. The second and following rounds on the bottom points of Uwagake Chidori need to be placed a distance below the previous round, in order to give space for the volume and loft of the thread to turn the corner and bend back on itself, in a smooth and sharp point. This usually amounts to about 2 mm for pearl cotton #5, but varies according to the gauge of the thread (larger the thread, the more the point needs to be stretched). The angle of the point also needs to be considered - a wider petal needs a shorter "stretch" than a narrow one. Prior to taking a stitch, place your thread where it needs to lay, and look where the point should fall under the previous round - that is where you need to place your stitch. If you are not "stretching" the stitch enough, the points will not lay sharp, and will be rounded and garbled.

+) Use the eye of your needle to stroke the interwoven threads downwards, in the area between the upper stitches. This will continue to open enough room for you to stitch. The upper stitches continue to get wider as the work downward. Be sure to allow this to happen for the proper effect and outcome of the stitch.