Bunka thread is a traditional fiber used in Bunka embroidery - which is a type of punch needle embroidery done in Japan (it's been called "painting with thread" since tremendous shadings and texturings can be achieved). The thread or yarn however, has found uses in other needlework and crafting techniques. Both Bunka thread and embroidery are traditionals in Japan... and bunka thread found its way into temari applications long enough ago that bunka is a traditional fiber for temari in Japan - second only to silk. Indeed  - original bunka was silk and it still can be gotten, though most bunka now is rayon. The rayon version is much more affordable, and has a terrific sheen. Bunka also comes in metalllics, both solid metallics and as an "ombre"  - a blend of a color. 

        To use bunka thread, it is usually "unchained". Bunka comes as a "chained" yarn - usually in hanks but it can also be gotten wound on cardbobbins depending on the source. The most common example of what bunka is like is to think of a tassel on a graduation mortarboard - that real slinky chained cord - that is rayon bunka (though here in the US when used like that it is usually called "chainette", and it also is sold as fringe or tassels under that name). Whether your bunka is originally in a hank or on a bobbin, you work the end loose, then pull - and it unchains itself very much like when you used to open a bag of potatoes or onions that were in the heavy paper bags and "sewn" closed at the top. Among some of the vintage bunka I've acquired was this diagram

that shows the chaining orientation and how it "unchains". Ideally for stitching you want the "2/4" state - where there is still one chain step left intact -and this is the most common way that the cord unravels when you pull it. It gives a very nice gauge for stitching. If you do go down to the final 1/4 stage which is one thread with no chain it is finer - rather too fine for stitching for most people but, it does work well for marking division lines.  One note - once you start the "unchaining" - don't cut your thread off past the unchained section. Leave a little bit of the unchained thread on the hank or bobbin, to continue pulling out when you need more. This way you don't have to tease out a new end to begin the unchaining process again. Unchained bunka is sometimes referred to as "Rydian", but this is not too common a term.

        Obviously, when you unchain bunka you get a much longer thread that what you started with from the source - usually three to four times as much. So - don't underestimate the cost effectiveness if you purchase bunka - it may seem more expensive in the beginning but that hank or bobbin is going to go a much much longer way than it looks.  Unchained, bunka would be about in between pearl 8 and pearl 5 - thinner than the "traditional" Pearl 5 but, since it has been kinked up in that chain, it retains a unique appearance and texture after it is unraveled. However, it's a flatter thread than a corded pearl, so this is something to consider when mixing fibers in projects - the third dimension will be a bit different. I have not seen silk bunka, but I use a lot of the rayon - and the colors and sheen are wonderful. It can be difficult to find in the US - but there are some sources (see the Supplies page; Ai's Temari Store online offers the full color range from Japan by web/mail order. In the US look for "chainette"). The outcome is wonderful - there is a subtle texture to the finished temari because of the thread texture, the sheen is wonderful and it also (rayon) has the characteristic color intensity "pop" of rayon threads, without the hassle that some rayons have of dealing with very slippery threads.

This photo shows a comparison of Bunka in various states set up against DMC Pearl Cotton #5. The "natural" degree of unchaining that usually occurs is the 2/4 (most desirable for stitching) -  you really have to work to get a 3/4 or a 1/4, but it can happen and you should be sure that you are consistently pulling a 2/4. A 1/4 is truly very fine - and a 3/4 actually looks a bit ungainly. You will see in the 2/4 example that has been smoothed with a damp cloth, that the appearance of the chain is still visible. When this works up on a temari it will be visible also and adds an added effect to the overall appearance. Notice the "curliness" of the normal or rough unchained 2/4. This may look a bit beastly to stitch with, but it truly is not. It passes through the stitching surface smoothly, and applying a moderate amount of tension to the final stitching will result in a unique texture to the completed design. Using very loose tension will retain even more "curliness" within the design and can look almost like the surface of a Turkish towel, or a boucle sweater.

The texture of the 2/4 chain makes it much more manageable than many smooth rayon threads. Bunka is also a very versatile fiber - in addition to the different degrees of "unchaining", you can vary the texture in several ways while stitching. Bunka can be used "rough" or "smooth". Rough is the natural state after unchaining, and you can also vary this depending on the amount of tension applied while stitching. Using looser tension can result in a very "boucle-like" appearance. The tighter the tension, the more it smooths out. Also, if you use a damp towel or sponge and light pull the thread along this you will "smooth" the thread (rayon), into an almost flat 2/4 chain. The thread takes on yet a different appearance under these conditions since the "stretch" has been removed from it. The final outcome is almost like a satin texture.

This temari by Karin shows rough bunka stitched with very loose tension	This temari was worked by Paula using smoothed bunka, tighter tension	Closeup of smoothed bunka
Smoothed bunka combined with Pearl 5	Rough bunka closeup	Rough bunka

     
         Intact bunka, unchained, makes the most wonderful tassel for the bottom of the temari - it is a very slinky cord, with a beautiful drape (remember those graduation tassels). While uncommon, there are instances when full bunka has been used as a stitching thread. It makes for a very dense, deeply textured temari.

We had a chat on the list about using bunka - here are some notes from it

You don't separate it, you "unchain" or "uncrochet" it. It is essentially a rayon crocheted chain. Intact, it makes lovely drapey tassels. To stitch with it, best results are with it unchained. Find the end that wants to unravel and just pull it gently. The thread will be a bit kinky or crinkled; so dampen it slightly and "iron" it smooth with your fingers before stitching. I never use more than a yard at a time (unchained). This stuff has lovely bright colors but they are prone to fading, so the finished mari should not be kept in a highly lit spot. The "tourist shop" temari I have and have seen are almost all done in bright almost neon color combinations, very eye catching  Lacis is a good source. .......Pat

Grab an end and keep fiddling with it until it pulls (like unravelling crochet) it will come out as a long kinky strand-lightly wet the strand before using (spray bottle) and it will straighten out. Martine

Be careful how you pull it.  When it is stretched it should look like a chain.  This may sound strange, but if you can pull it again, you have it pulled right.  If it is extremely skinny and it can't be pulled again, it is pulled wrong.  As I pull, I wrap it around a piece of cardboard to keep it taunt so it doesn't tangle. Good luck.
Carolyn Mcd

Bunka suggestions go along with my experience.  I did learn that a small piece of wet sponge helps to smooth the thread.     I purchased my thread through Nichi Bei Bussan in Northern California....Harriet