Bara translates from the Japanese to "rose". It has at times taken on the English interpretation of "rose garden" which seems to be a bit inaccurate. I suspect (my thoughts only) is that because usually more than one element is worked on a temari within the overall design, that results in more than one "rose"; multiple roses therefore became a "garden". Technically however,  the translation is singular, "rose". The element is made up of layers of a polygon shape, stitched in an off-set manner. While most commonly seen using squares as the polygon or masu, it can be worked with any shape as long as there is a set of marking lines for each shape's corners.       Bara is probably not suggested as a beginners first project for the same reasons as masu is not recommended - a little practice in general temari making is required to have an overall understanding of the things that help the outcome of the stitch.      Bara begins with a solid shape/polygon stitched in standard Masu manner. This base shape needs to be accurate or the rest of the element will be off, and it will get worse as it grows. The design grows in layers as successive shapes are stitched over the previous, with an opening in the center for the previous rounds to show through. There needs to be a set of marking lines for each set of corners - so if the Bara is worked in squares, there needs to be eight lines, in two sets of four.

This example is worked using a square as the polygon. Work a solid base of the selected shape, in standard Masu style. The number of rounds will be specified in the design, or if you are free stitching, remember to work enough rounds to compensate for the following layers covering the corners. After completing the base layer using Lines 1, 2, 3, 4, change to the next color (usually there is a color change but it's not an absolute requirement). Enter the thread and come up at the starting point on the alternate set of lines - A,B, C, D. Note the placement of the thread is about 1 thread-width up/away from the previous round. This is to prevent the first layer sides from being pulled inward or "caving in".

Stitch a square using Lines A, B, C, D, following the usual method of a Masu; take care when placing the first row of this layer to continue to "stretch" the stitch by placing them just above the previous layer/row. Continue to work around and work as many rows as required in the design. If free stitching, this will usually enough to cover the corners of the previous layer. As the design progresses it often will be the number of rows of the previous layer plus 1 (or more, depending on the thread being used), but this can vary according to the requirements of the design or your pleasure

Repeat this sequence, alternating layers until the desired size and depth is achieved. Be sure as you work to maintain sharpness of the shape, and corners.

The above example shows a Bara worked with triangles, on a Simple 6.		This example is a traditional square Bara worked on an 8 Combination.

The above example is worked on a Simple 8; as the layers progress wider and outward on the ball, the spherical nature interacts to give the curved effects of the edges of the layers.