Masu kagari is traditionally known as the square stitch. It comes from the Japanese "masu", which is a small square box used in ancient times for measuring rice (either for food preparation or for currency). They came in a few sizes depending on need and use. In modern Japan they are mostly seen being used to drink sake. The actual design of the stitching sequence is obviously quite simple; it's maintaining a regular, even outcome and precise shape as its worked that can be challenging. This is not recommended as a starting stitch element for a beginner; it helps to have a bit of experience in general temari making.       When stitching a polygon, there needs to be a marking line for each corner. To stitch a square there needs to be four intersecting marking lines, such as the pole of a simple 4 or 8 division, or the 8 point center of an 8 combination division. Using an 8 combination when starting out can be helpful since the marking lines provide additional sight-lines and reference points.

It helps to place a pin on the starting line since being able to count rows clearly in the center is difficult, and having the same number of sides on the shape is important for balance. Enter the thread as shown on line 1, close to the center and just to the left of the marking line.

Lay the working thread from Line 1 to Line 2. Notice that the thread is parallel to the outer marking line of the face square, as well as the inner marking line between 2-3 and 1-4. Turn the ball so that you can take a stitch on Line 2. Always lay the thread where you want it to go, then take the stitch to keep it there.Repeat and take a stitch on line 3.

Repeat again and take a stitch on line 4. Note that the previous threads are laying parallel to the square marking lines, and that the angles formed are sharp, clean and true. Take note that the needle is perpendicular to the marking line as the stitch is taken. It's important to maintain this on each stitch to keep the angles sharp, as well as taking a small stitch yet deep enough into the mari base to hold it in place.

Repeat and take a stitch on line 1 - which is the starting point. That ends the first round. Filling the shape is a series of concentric rounds, and they need to build around each other but not "spiral" out from the center. Note again that the needle is perpendicular to the marking line and not angled "upwards" as this round completes and steps up for the next round.

Repeat this sequence until the required number of rows are completed. This example shows 4 rows. Be sure to check as you work to be sure that the sides are equal and even, and angles are sharp. Masu can also be worked with an open center; follow the same procedures, except start the first row a given distance from the center.

Keeping the shape even and regular is the main challenge with Masu Kagari. Some extra hints that can help are *) Use the marking lines to sight parallel and perpendicular  *) Set some "landscape" pins so that you have working targets to check against as you work. *) When working more than one shape per temari, work several rows of each face in rotation rather than working all one shape at a time. This way you can check how the size and shape is progressing and adjust or correct as needed, to be sure that the shapes are even around the temari. *) Always check that your marking lines are in place and have not skewed as you handle the ball, before you take a stitch. *) Groom your threads as you go and correct mistakes early. They grow as you work and may not be adjustable after you've invested more time and effort.

This is a temari made with both Masu and Bara elements. The Masu are worked on the 4 point intersections with the vertical marking lines and the equator.